Mulberry leaves & silk gowns?

In spite of the fact we’re in Europe again, Mr B and I find ourselves keeping an eye on things in China and India. I suppose this is natural as we enjoyed our Asian time so much and also because from a professional viewpoint we find it an important perspective to bring to the table in EU-centric discussions here in Brussels.

One of the things expats in Beijing like to discuss is how the business environment has changed over the last 5 years as China has developed economically but more importantly in terms of self-confidence.

In both Mumbai and Beijing, it was evident that governments and the national business community had reached the point where they wanted to strike out on their own in terms of management and personnel. In theory there is nothing wrong with this at all – some would argue it is a sign of  successful economic development. Each government has a duty to nurture national economies as they see fit.

The other side of the coin are expat workers who increasingly feel marginalised, dismayed and concerned that companies in India and China are now trying to run before they can walk.

While many companies (both subsidiaries of western businesses and national companies) could demonstrate perfect mastery of technology and business processes, we heard many discussions about limits on critical thinking/the ability of employees to think outside rigid systems they had experienced directly and the problems this often posed for HQ. Most pointed to the rote-based education systems in both India and China that reward memorisation as opposed to abstract reasoning/independent  research more common in the western education system.

I’m well aware of how arrogant this sounds.

Most expats are experienced senior managers, sent to solve problems or set up new businesses and recruit the best local talent. Most of them accept if they do their jobs correctly, they’ll eventually make themselves redundant and either go home or move on to the next posting.  That’s expat life. Always has been.

Even during our short time in Beijing, however, we felt the times a changin’; the real problems friends and trailing spouses had in obtaining or extending visas, the increasing blocks on the internet, the visibility of police and PLA personnel on the streets, the growing frustration and concern of Mr B’s clients about ever changing rules on doing business there and subtle limits imposed on those trying to expand market share.

All this is a very long way of saying yesterday’s Financial Times carried an interesting Op-Ed about changing  business conditions in China which is worth a look. It’s not just Goggle re-considering whether the promise of billions of new consumers is either possible or desirable. I question whether EU-based businesses are the most competitive or those best placed to transfer skills to China but it is an interesting barometer of current thought amongst the expat business community in Beijing.

The Chinese have a proverb about perseverance, “with time and patience the mulberry leaf becomes a silk gown”. It seems western businesses are increasingly feeling the fruits of their efforts might resemble the “Emperor’s New Clothes”.

Xin nian kuai le!*

As the (western, I’ve got used to distinguishing this week) New Year approaches, it seems the thing to do to look back over a pretty crazy year which has seen me living in 3 different countries.

Bad things about 2009:

• By far and away the worst aspect of this year was watching Mr B’s mounting frustration at his Beijing posting. Our decision to leave early was not taken lightly but, under the circumstances, waiting it out would have been fruitless.

• An all-too-brief stay in Mumbai after returning from 6 months of the most hard-core work experience of my life in Jakarta. We miss the tropical weather, M & his family and the craziness of life in India.

Good things about 2009:

• The arrival of my beautiful niece and god-daughter A. And the arrival of lots and lots of gorgeous babies to friends. Before we reach next mid-summer, we know of 6 new arrivals to come – a bumper crop.

• New friends – so many, and what a difference they make. Friends we made in Mumbai and especially those in Beijing have made us feel at home and given us lots of laughs and memories. In many ways, I feel happier in Beijing than in Mumbai – there is so much going on here. It is true that for expat wives finding friends who you can trust and share problems with is invaluable.

• Getting an insight into arguably the most important country of this century. And having a chance to get to know some of the language, tortuous as it has been.

I’m not sure I’ve improved as a wife this year. Does it count that I tried? I’ve certainly cooked more and for a few months of the year have even earned my keep!

2010 brings another new posting – this time to Brussels in mid-January. Mr B & I met in Brussels. We have a lot of good friends still living there, we know enough French to muddle through, and we pretty much know how things work. Plus I’ll be able to get back to work, in theory. It should all be good, right?

2009 has been a hectic but fascinating year.

Wishing everyone a happy 2010! Thanks for reading.

* Happy new year!

First Impressions

We’ve arrived in the Middle Kingdom…

Slightly shell-shocked by the sheer modernity of Beijing after the chaos and laissez-faire atmosphere of Mumbai.

I am trying very hard to keep an open mind and a cheerful demeanour. As a good expat wife should.

I am trying very hard not to think too much about my friend A’s words as he headed back to London from the wilds of Eastern Europe – after a while, expat life loses its air of adventure, “because you get tired of always having to start again”.

Over the last few days, we’ve:

• Done the obligatory visit to Tian’anmen Square (crazily crowded for the May Day holiday, impressive massive portrait of Mao. Looking forward to seeing the Forbidden City.) We’ve also gone into some back streets in search of the traditional courtyard homes called Hutongs.
• Been ripped off by an “art student” selling calligraphy scrolls for a “language exchange” to N. America (Mr B denies this but let’s remember, it was he who also got cornered by the ear-cleaning man in Mumbai). I satisfied myself by playing sceptical and scathing and bored wife, thereby gaining huge amounts of sympathy for Mr B and knocking the price down by 500RMB in the process.
• Checked out housing (much more swish here, much more scarily compound – the kinds of places where you can shop, eat, exercise and socialise with 600 other foreign families and never, ever leave – where have these mountains of foreigners come from? There are thousands of expats here! Mr B and I are quite overwhelmed with it!)
• Navigated our way around the subway, feeling quietly proud of ourselves in the process (thank you S&S for the basic Chinese symbols, they’ve come in v.handy).
• Rejoiced that the Olympics seems to have resulted in English signage all over the city. We were especially relieved to find that ATMs don’t launch straight into Mandarin as we were warned. Although we still needed a translator to sign up for a mobile phone.
• Learned the words for hello/how are you and thank you. I can also pick out the symbols for Exit, North, West, Gate and Person which has made me feel smug and far too pleased with myself. I have also nagged Mr B in to the habit of handing over money using 2 hands.
• Survived our required government health check to get our visas sorted out (mercifully well organised, although, I do not understand the relevance of checking for colour blindness, or why we were asked to disclose if we had ever had rabies, but not if we smoked or drank alcohol).

It is weird, hard, frustrating, disconcerting to start again but what to do?

Tomorrow we move in to an apart-hotel. I hope it will make me feel more settled.

Salaam Bombay (or what I’ve learned from Mumbai)

I hate goodbyes. Even when I want to leave somewhere, saying goodbye to friends and familiarity is not pleasant.

And I absolutely, definitely, do NOT want to leave Mumbai.

But needs must, and a global recession can be used as justification for just about anything these days, n’est-ce pas? It is a shame the internet is not truly anonymous so that I could indulge in a good old-fashioned rant about having to leave this fair city. Ah the tales I could tell as an outraged expat wife right now.

I digress.

Being enrolled in the Bombay section of Wife School for the last year has taught me some valuable lessons which I thought I might share:

• Patience – part one -  looking back at how frustrated I got during my first few months is almost like watching someone else. I don’t know at which point I finally understood and accepted that getting anything done here is a never-ending process rather than an endgame but thank God that happened. I’m much calmer and less teary/hysterical now when Mr B gets home from work. He is much relieved too. Of course, having the indomitable M around to help out is no small part of this.
• How to say no - mostly to beggars and hawkers. Again, there is a point at which you learn the correct head and hand gestures to show disinterest. And off they go to bother someone else. Mumbai hawkers can spot a tourist from 10 miles out, I’m sure of it. I only hope this does not mean I am less compassionate for the destitute….
• Indian head waggle – I fear it is going to stick around for a while. It is just so damn catchy. Mr B is a regular addict of the head waggle. Especially on the phone.
• Hinglish – I now catch myself regularly saying things like, “Mr B is liking butter chicken too much,” or “I’m here only”. Mr B has taken to saying “aacha” (OK, fine, good) A LOT.
• How to cross the road in under 20 minutes – Japanese expats are offered lessons in this by moving companies upon arrival in Mumbai. Seriously. Driving in the city has helped a lot with mastering this skill. And there is a method in the apparent chaos and madness, I promise.
• Staring – for the first month or so it freaked me out. The stare seemed so threatening. Then I realised it was just sheer curiousity. Indians are unabashedly curious (Accident? Must stop and have a look. Big machine digging hole in road? Cue for crowd to gather expectantly). Next, I realised that I stared at people just as much as they were staring at me. And a lot of the time I’m taking pictures which is actually pretty rude. Next time you’re in the supermarket or walking down the street minding your own business,imagine some foreign idiot snapping away. That’s me here. I’m not going to stop, but I try to be more sensitive and discreet about it now. Ahem.
• Patience - part two – if you can wait it out, a solution will present itself. If it doesn’t, send Mr B in to get shouty. It is a role he has come to relish.
• Patience - part three – the realisation that, as M says, “this is India madam, all things are possible”

Amen to that.

Thank you Mumbai. I love you!

PS Of course the driving license saga is not yet over. I’ve now passed 2 tests and due to a screw up by the driving school who did not pay the proper fees on time, I apparently now have to come back on 7th May to process the license. And probably do another test. I’m resigned to this. At least nice 3-star officer has promised to process my paperwork personally upon return. Only small problem with this is I will be in Beijing by then…what to do? Start all over again in China? Is this a sign that I am just not meant to drive (legally) ever???????

These Are A Few Of My Favourite Things (in Mumbai)

Now that we’re leaving the Maximum City, I thought I’d share a few gems in case any of you are lucky enough to find yourselves in probably the most fascinating city on earth:

1. Britannia: For fabulous Parsi food and a great atmosphere, especially the elderly owner who orders for you on your first visit. As well as the obligatory berry pilao, try the raspberry soda, a Parsi favourite.
2. Kyani: Another fabulous Parsi joint, this time a tea and cake shop. Great rose flavoured milk shakes. Very old school charm.
3. Chamomile: A delicious shop in Bandra selling a great range of Indian designed dresses – pricey normally but brilliant pre-monsoon sales.
4. Good Earth: Sigh. Home stuff shopping heaven, with a lovely cafe to boot. Perfection. I have spent far too much here during our time in Mumbai but do not regret it AT ALL!!!!! There are rumours it may be going online. Watch out if it does. It is SO great.
5. Banganga Tank: A wonderful hidden gem of tranquil space close to Malabar Hill.
6. Tea at the Sea Lounge, Taj Palace Hotel: Possibly the best afternoon tea on the planet. As well as cucumber sandwiches and cakes, a selection of dim sum and other yummy Asian foods are served. I wish we were going to be here when it reopens in Sept 09 following the terrorist attacks.
7. Indigo Deli: Best place for cheese in the south of the city and  a great restaurant for those occasions when you crave western food.
8. Dome: It may be a cliché but it really is the best place in town to watch the sunset over the Arabian Sea.
9. Aarey Dairy Colony: Green and peaceful – feels more like you are in the middle of the countryside than the middle of the city. Try to find someone who lives there to visit the buffalo and look for Aarey ice-cream across Mumbai.
10. Art Deco: Whether it is along Marine Drive, by the central Maidan or hidden away in Bandra, there are beautiful art deco buildings just waiting to be discovered. This city could beat Miami hands down if there was just a bit of a preservation effort.
11. Food and juice stand opposite the Bombay Seamen’s Association in Fort (the street parallel to Britannia). The best batata pav in the city. Delicious! Cheap! And wrapped in ship in port pages so you can check out what cargo is coming in and out of the city. For the best sugar cane juice in the city try the stall on the corner opposite Fab India in Fort (not the one right outside it but across the road).
12. Chimanlals – it is probably a very good thing I only found this place recently. It does amazing stationery, cards and wrapping paper. I LOVE it.
13. Haji Ali- there is something just so exotic about that little island Mosque. It looks incredible at sunset.
14. Black and Yellows – I have to psyche myself up each time I have to take one by myself because I hate being ripped off and there are some real rogues driving them but they are just such a quinessential part of the city. I’m not going to forget a very recent balmy night drive through Byculla to our place with a blaring Bollywood soundtrack. It is going to be a real shame if these tiny taxis are phased out. Although probably better for backs, legs and bums across the city given there is normally zero suspension and about 4 inches of leg room.
15. The irreplaceable M, Mrs M and their family – they’ve made such a difference to our stay here and we will miss them very, very much.

Inconvenience Is Regretted?

Mumbai is a city under construction. Constant construction. It is needed to accommodate the ever-increasing numbers of people flocking to the Island City hoping to make their fortunes.

I was reminded of the fabulous Indian road sign (“inconvenience is regretted”, d’oh) that accompanies building work here, when we had it confirmed a few days ago that we are being moved.

This is probably the single biggest drawback to being an expat in the current economic environment.

We’re not the first and undoubtedly will not be the last people we know  in Mumbai to be moved to a more established market as companies re-jig themselves and try to survive.  We are counting ourselves lucky. We know of many people who have simply been made redundant and have headed home to face massive uncertainty.

Still, the speed of our move has come as shock to me – I feel as if I have only just settled back in from my time in Jakarta.

In a week’s time I am going to be waking up in China. And I love Mumbai! How on earth am I going to master Mandarin? And Beijing is Canada-cold for a good chunk of the year. I’ll miss monsoon. And Diwali! And there is no understanding of being veg there but at least it will get me out of eating weird things. I hope. And poor M does not have another job lined up. How on earth is he going to support his 5 kids?

These and many other thoughts are preoccupying me at the moment.

We’re now scrambling to re-visit favourite landmarks and restaurants and say our goodbyes. One of my stops is going to be the Ganesh temple at Prabadehvi. The god of the city is the remover of obstacles and  also of good times. Perhaps a coconut offering will bring us back again here some day? Somehow I don’t feel as if we’re done with Mumbai quite yet. Is that just wishful thinking?

Wife School Lesson For the Day: Supervising the packing and finding a new place to live and unpacking and getting the utilities set up AGAIN (this time there is no English language option on tap) are very definitely wifely duties. Sigh. The Beijing Chapter of Wife School beckons.

Society Affair

All blocks of flats in Mumbai are governed by the Society – an august gathering of residents who dictate the rules and regulations by which the rest of us must abide.

There is something similar in Belgium that I remember our friends J & F grappling with.

I guarantee the Indian version takes it to a new dimension. Our apartment complex is dominated by Gujarati diamond merchants (who have homes in Antwerp and New York too, naturally), a few diplomats, and rich industrialists.

Largely, Mr B and I ignore the notices announcing Society meetings, which inevitably close with the immortal line “residents are kindly requested to make the convenience to attend”.

For my own amusement as much as anything else, here are extracts from 2 of our favourite Society missives to date:

1. (19th Dec 2008) “Our building is very famous and about 10 foreigners are residing here. Hence it is at a grave risk of attack from the terrorists. It is very easy for the very well trained terrorists to kill the guards, enter the building and start killing people. Hence the entrance of the parking lot and lobby should be fully protected by adding barbed wires and other sharp pointed iron roads (sic) going up to a height of 15 ft. The place of guard at the gate should be totally attack proof. For this we should consult some good security expert. I hope immediate action will be taken by the Society on this very critical subject”.

2. (4th March 2009) “It has been noticed that food-stuffs, water mixed with oil, cigarettes (sic) butts are thrown from flats on the podium level. More specifically, it has been observed that Tower A (we’re Tower B!) side, oil mixed with water is regularly thrown from the kitchen area invariably in the morning. Residents are requested to instruct their domestic staff to refrain from doing such acts. In some flats, clothes are put out on the railing of balconies to dry. With a desire not to mar the beauty and aesthetics of the building, members may kindly instruct their staff not to hang the clothes to dry on the railings. Many cars go at high speed from Tower B to Tower A which is a potential cause for accident. Members may kindly instruct their drivers to observe speed discipline”.

The British, with their love of rules and bureaucracy, have a lot to answer for.