Soft landing (more tips for an easy transition to Beijing)

Final thoughts on Beijing:

• Guanxi – if you don’t have an iTouch or iPhone with one of the brilliant taxi card apps, then this handy SMS service will see you heading off in the right direction in at least Beijing and Shanghai. Send the name of the place, street etc you are looking for to 106695882929  and the service will send you a list of options. You select the correct one and can opt to receive the address in Chinese characters.
• Problems with your internet connection? If the problems aren’t related to the fact you’ve been cut off from paying a bill you didn’t know you owed, China Unicom‘s helpline dial 10086 (which is surprisingly helpful) can be accessed in English by hitting option 2. They aim to send someone out same day. On a related note, ask at your bank  and mobile phone provider for the English language helpline number.
• With all the politically sensitive anniversaries in 2009, the escalating row with Google, and proof of the power of Twitter in Iran, the Chinese government is in no mood for chances. Over the last few months the powers that be have been systematically cracking down on the free sites that allow access to the “real”, uncensored internet and social networking sites remain blocked. As an expat count yourself lucky you have access to foreign credit cards and so a way around this. Get thee a VPN provider ASAP. I’ve been impressed with the level of service offered by Witopia who were really helpful when even my VPN  stopped working during the Uighur riots over the summer.
• If you’ll be using the subway or the bus network (and really, why wouldn’t you? It is not difficult) try to get yourself one of the blue, rechargeable IC cards, Beijing’s answer to London’s Oyster card. These can only be bought at special counters in the subway and as often as not there is no-one there. If you hang around, someone will usually materialise. From memory, the card needs a deposit of 20 kuai and then it is up to you how much you add.
• As much as I love Jenny Lou, try to find your local Jingkalong and market and save a bundle on fruit and veg, spices and noodles. It is also a good chance to practice your Chinese, at least the numbers. Inevitably you’ll be something of an attraction and receive free bunches of herbs as gifts. Don’t follow Mr B’s example and fall for very expensive imported fruits, however. Ahem.
• If you can’t find that crucial western foodstuff, try City Shop near the US Embassy. It is pricey but when you are desperate, it is great. Expat urban legend says if you can’t find it anywhere else in the city, it will be here. We found a frozen turkey here on Christmas Eve and thus averted a catastrophe. It is also great for frozen vegetarian food and baby food. Apparently.
• Expat wives in need of career advice can do no better than talk to Sarah Cooper at Cows From My Window. A font of calm and good advice.

A word on etiquette in Beijing’s crowded spaces, notably the subway and lifts (elevators). The unspoken rule for both of these situations is layering. When entering the subway at rush hour, unless you plan to get out at the next station, you should push your way back or towards the middle of the carriage. You’ll notice that approaching each station a shuffling dance ensues whereby those getting off push towards the doors and everyone else steps back. The same in elevators. Push the button for your floor on entering the doors (not when you’ve found an empty spot) and then arrange yourself accordingly. If you want a top floor, you should be standing at the back, if you want a low floor try to stay near the doors.

Finally, and then I’ll go, for an insight into local vs expat tension, check out this recent discussion. Mr B and I can’t decide whether the article is a Chinese attempt at irony or simply aggressive posturing in bad taste but the reactions from the expat and local communities alike are illuminating.

What I’ve learned in Beijing

Well, here’s a post I didn’t think I was going to have to write for a good few years yet.

In any case, here goes:

• The expat community here is open, varied, friendly and extraordinarily willing to help out newbies. Take advantage of this and jump straight in to building yourself a social life, try new hobbies and generally get yourself out of your apart-hotel.
• The expat community here is hard drinking. Very hard drinking. I’ve heard more than one first hand account of expats having to be sent off to rehab after living here for a while.  January seems to be the month of promises to stop. Be sensible and pack an extra liver.
• Be aware that expat postings take a toll on relationships if you are not careful. There are all kinds of temptations in Asia (see above). As an acquaintance of Mr B’s has said, “Beijing is where marriages come to die”. Consider yourself warned.
• All that noisy gobbing up of phlegm bothering you? In a few months, you won’t even notice it. In fact, you may not even notice your partner has taken up the habit until it is too late.
• The rudest expat wives hang out at Lily’s nails on the 3rd floor of 3.3 mall in Sanlitun. Their treatment of Chinese workers there has to be seen to be believed. Disgusting. Also look out for young Russians who bring in their ridiculously pampered pooches. Always something to see at Lily’s.
• Something is seriously wrong with us all when people talk about how you must buy 10 shirts at the clothing market opposite Beijing Zoo because they will only last one wear and should just be disposed of  after one wear rather than washed. Quantity over quality is definitely the Chinese way. And the rest of us are just encouraging it. The madness has to stop!!
• Mandarin is difficult but suck it up. You won’t survive without it. You can however do a huge amount of communicating with just a few words and a lot of miming. You’d be amazed.
• China is indeed a political and economic force to be reckoned with. But don’t believe the hype, or the statistics. It is not there yet. Mr B and I are not convinced that China actually wants responsibility for running things. There remains a level of paranoia here about maintaining control which is going to result in an internal focus first and foremost for a long time.
• Expat life is always about the people, less about the location. The friends you make, the locals you get to know – these are what will make or break your posting.

Mr B and I are really sad to leave Beijing. It’s been a fantastic, enriching, tough, awful, fascinating, fun 9 months. The good has definitely outweighed the bad and under different circumstances we’d be here for a good few years yet. I’m determined to try and keep up my Chinese language skills so who knows, in a few years we might be back…

xie xie Zhong guo! (thanks China!)

PS Are moving companies heavily influenced by culture? Our Indian movers carefully wrapped every single posession we own taking 2 full days to pack us, reflecting that posessions are precious there. Our Chinese movers have been the model of efficiency, packing our flat in around 10 hours.

China in your hands

From all the discussions and debates that expats have amongst themselves here and because I love sweeping generalisations, I thought I’d share the consensus that there are 4 kinds of “China hands” here in Beijing:

The Long-termers: normally bitter, fluent and not going anywhere fast – often the kind of person who would not fit in anywhere else in the world.

The Could-Be-Anywheres: those who make no attempt to fit in to China at all; don’t bother to learn the language; keep a driver to avoid public transport but have a great expat life.

The Starting Outers: college kids with identikit backgrounds coming for an “experience” to put on their CVs and to wait out the recession. This includes vast numbers of ABCs and CBCs (American born Chinese, Canadian born Chinese).

The Over-Its: those who have been here for a while, learned the language, tried to understand the culture but who are tired of it all and just want to head home.

Perhaps Google are in the latter category? The announcement they are considering pulling out of China has been received with equal measures of admiration and scepticism. Personally I think it was a crazy move to begin with, given the required rules of operation here are completely at odds with the company’s raison d’etre. I will not miss the Great Firewall of China at all and can only hope expats and others continue to be able to access VPN services as the government continues its crackdown of the internet.It’s definitely become much harder to do things on the internet since we arrived here 9 months ago.

Is the move by Google really a result of a new round of cyber attacks targeting those involved in human rights? Or has the company realised that the cost of doing business here at the moment is just too high? Read all about it here and here and decide for yourselves.

Some Hard Truths about working in China – hints & tips

When I attended my first expat wives coffee morning here, one of the most heated topics of discussion was the treatment of expat husbands in the Chinese workplace.

Not so much in terms of support from corporate HQ, although that came up, (congrats Microsoft, your HR support for accompanying families and working spouses is the only one I’ve heard consistently good things about) but the day to day reality. The overwhelming sense was one of bewilderment.

Of course, adjusting expectations and battling to understand complex behavioural norms is a fact of life for expats. Add a language barrier and you have yourself a situation.

Neither is it fair to say every expat working here has an awful time. Everyone has come here for the opportunity to work in the most important market of the 21st century. Most love it. Some never leave. But almost everyone will also admit to some serious frustrations at one point or another.

I’m not going to touch on the issue of “face” or table manners or how to present business cards. What follows is based on raw observation and feedback from the coal face – tips from anecdotes heard over the past 6 months:

• Start learning Mandarin – you can have an interpreter (and sometimes this is a useful negotiating tactic during meetings with clients) but they will always edit and you won’t gain as much respect as if you have a go;
• However, make sure it is clear from the outset to HQ and the local team that language ability does not happen overnight and, in the vast majority of cases, that’s not why expat workers have been bought in;
• Insist on a foreign line manager – a truth universally acknowledged in Beijing is that reporting to a Chinese boss does not work, leading to massive stress and resentment on both sides which often filters back to HQ. If you can’t, insist on having a liaison at HQ (NOT someone in HR);
• Likewise, understand that for most Chinese, having a foreign boss is like a slap in the face. While it will never be acknowleged publicly, the view is that expat workers are lazy and spoiled and completely unecessary. Maybe they are. More often than not, you will be resented. See point 1;
• Understand that while most Chinese employees will get a kick out of being invited into your home, trying western food and drink, hearing western music etc, it is almost always done out of politesse and will last a very short time. One woman I met spoke of preparing for hours before her team came for a drinks party, only to have them arrive en masse and leave after 30 mins.
• The office hierarchy is unspoken but strict. If you manage to make real Chinese friends at the office, count your blessings, it is extremely rare and will probably consist of Chinese who have studied abroad;
• Yes, at some point expect to be presented with bizarre foods and plenty of booze. And yes, it is a test of your manhood;
• Get used to finding 15 different ways to explain something – short and simple is best;
• After handing out instructions, set a deadline for the team to come to you and ask questions. If you don’t, you may find that when you check in on progress days later, team members are still struggling to understand what needs to be done or discussing it amongst themselves;
• Don’t be surprised if after a team discussion about a task where no one appears to have immediate questions or concerns, a team member is appointed by his/her fellows to come to you with questions. Understand that culturally, this is extremely hard for the person in question;
• Don’t be surprised if you receive negative appraisal/feedback on your performance. Remember the Chinese education system is based on trying to shame pupils into good habits and on fierce competition where all tactics are considered valid. Try not to take it personally but above all manage it with HQ – if you work with teams in other offices, insist on feedback from them to provide a more balanced perspective;
• Get used to resentful colleagues sending emails directly to your boss, with you in CC, for all manner of petty issues. These normally revolve around the fact you have refused to do your colleague’s work for them. Emailing up is a daily occurrence, it seems.
• Take a look at Sam Goodman’s Top 10 Tips

Forewarned is forearmed, right?

Chasing Cars

Anyone who followed my Indian driving experiences, will no doubt be as bemused as Mr B to learn that I have every intention of finding a way to drive in China too. I figure as a late starter, I can make up in obscure locations and languages what I’ve missed in actual driving hours (and ability).

This means I will either have to go through the whole training, theory and test again in Beijing or a miracle will happen and on return to Mumbai in a few weeks, I will actually be able to pick up my license from nice 3 star officer and “only” have to pass the Chinese theory test to get going. Those of you familiar with driving in Mumbai will be pleased to know that Beijing looks like a doddle by comparison (people almost always stay in the designated lanes! They signal more! They honk less! The roads are almost pot-hole free! They don’t respect pedestrian rights here either!)

As luck would have it, I’ve become hooked on a local Beijing TV show called Traffic Light.

Given that I understand only one word out of every 250,000 spoken by the serious traffic policeman presenter and his glamorous co-host (whose role seems to be nothing more than to stare at him and nod seriously), I’m inferring that it is a mix of live traffic updates from around the city (underlines the serious number of CCTV cameras here) and lectures against bad driving.

Glamorous co-host, stern policeman

My favourite part of the show is when the cop reviews CCTV footage of various, often drink-related, accidents and general bad driving behaviour. He proceeds to show step-by-step the exact cause of the malhappenstances. All the time using one of those pens used by sports presenters who are trying to appear knowledgeable to highlight the various sins of the drivers. Trust me, the makers of The World’s Worst Drivers will have plenty to choose from in Beijing.

Highlights include:

• The wedding party, complete with 4 limousines, that stopped on the highway to take advantage of a pretty strip of grass and take some photos of their special day.
• The car on one of the city’s major ring roads during the evening rush hour, driving in the middle lane, inexplicably at 30mph with its hazard lights on. The cop then somberly cut to pictures of the 4-mile tailback this caused. Some kind of stern lecture ensued.
• The baijiu loving truck driver who careened across 3 lanes of highway at 2AM, got stuck on the central reservation barrier and who, by sheer persistance, managed to free the cab of his truck and drive off. Some kind of stern lecture ensued.
• Live coverage of the car that rammed into the back of another car so hard that the front car ended up on the roof of the car that rammed it.  The cops on the ground were at a loss as to how to proceed for a good 20 mins. Eventually the tow-truck driver who had been summoned to the scene decided to reverse slowly and dislodged the offending vehicle. The drivers of both cars stood on the kerb smoking.

Superb!

No Cunning Linguist, I

If I ever needed proof that I’m getting older, my Mandarin class is providing lots of evidence.

I’m about halfway through my first course of Mandarin lessons and it does not bode well. I can’t seem to get anything much to stick. Two seconds after we’ve practiced a phrase, it’s gone again. And it’s making me feel dumber by the lesson.

My teacher is pityingly patient but I sense that even she is getting towards the end of her tether. But at least we hear, “NO! Horrible European pronunciation!! Listen again! Or Chinese person hear you and know immediately you foreigner!”, somewhat less frequently.

I’ve never been anywhere close to being called a polyglot and I knew going into this that Mandarin is tough to learn because of the infamous “tones”  – get one wrong and you’ll insult someone’s mother when you’re just trying to ask about the weather.

What has amazed me though is the number of expats in my class who have lived in China for years, literally years, without learning any of the language.

In some cases it is because they work long hours in an English language environment; others have Chinese spouses who take care of all their pesky language needs; others remain within the expat bubble, relying on their more linguistically advanced friends to get by.

I’m taking classes at a school that was recommended by a lot of different people and I’m generally very happy with the quality of teaching but why, for example, can I say “the restaurant is near the Forbidden City”, and “yesterday I ate dumplings”, but not, “I’m sorry, I don’t speak Mandarin and if I do try to use the few words I know, I am likely to slaughter your ancient , glorious language (which has been referred to as the Italian of the East by the way) and confuse you greatly”?