Mulberry leaves & silk gowns?

In spite of the fact we’re in Europe again, Mr B and I find ourselves keeping an eye on things in China and India. I suppose this is natural as we enjoyed our Asian time so much and also because from a professional viewpoint we find it an important perspective to bring to the table in EU-centric discussions here in Brussels.

One of the things expats in Beijing like to discuss is how the business environment has changed over the last 5 years as China has developed economically but more importantly in terms of self-confidence.

In both Mumbai and Beijing, it was evident that governments and the national business community had reached the point where they wanted to strike out on their own in terms of management and personnel. In theory there is nothing wrong with this at all – some would argue it is a sign of  successful economic development. Each government has a duty to nurture national economies as they see fit.

The other side of the coin are expat workers who increasingly feel marginalised, dismayed and concerned that companies in India and China are now trying to run before they can walk.

While many companies (both subsidiaries of western businesses and national companies) could demonstrate perfect mastery of technology and business processes, we heard many discussions about limits on critical thinking/the ability of employees to think outside rigid systems they had experienced directly and the problems this often posed for HQ. Most pointed to the rote-based education systems in both India and China that reward memorisation as opposed to abstract reasoning/independent  research more common in the western education system.

I’m well aware of how arrogant this sounds.

Most expats are experienced senior managers, sent to solve problems or set up new businesses and recruit the best local talent. Most of them accept if they do their jobs correctly, they’ll eventually make themselves redundant and either go home or move on to the next posting.  That’s expat life. Always has been.

Even during our short time in Beijing, however, we felt the times a changin’; the real problems friends and trailing spouses had in obtaining or extending visas, the increasing blocks on the internet, the visibility of police and PLA personnel on the streets, the growing frustration and concern of Mr B’s clients about ever changing rules on doing business there and subtle limits imposed on those trying to expand market share.

All this is a very long way of saying yesterday’s Financial Times carried an interesting Op-Ed about changing  business conditions in China which is worth a look. It’s not just Goggle re-considering whether the promise of billions of new consumers is either possible or desirable. I question whether EU-based businesses are the most competitive or those best placed to transfer skills to China but it is an interesting barometer of current thought amongst the expat business community in Beijing.

The Chinese have a proverb about perseverance, “with time and patience the mulberry leaf becomes a silk gown”. It seems western businesses are increasingly feeling the fruits of their efforts might resemble the “Emperor’s New Clothes”.

Soft landing (more tips for an easy transition to Beijing)

Final thoughts on Beijing:

• Guanxi – if you don’t have an iTouch or iPhone with one of the brilliant taxi card apps, then this handy SMS service will see you heading off in the right direction in at least Beijing and Shanghai. Send the name of the place, street etc you are looking for to 106695882929  and the service will send you a list of options. You select the correct one and can opt to receive the address in Chinese characters.
• Problems with your internet connection? If the problems aren’t related to the fact you’ve been cut off from paying a bill you didn’t know you owed, China Unicom‘s helpline dial 10086 (which is surprisingly helpful) can be accessed in English by hitting option 2. They aim to send someone out same day. On a related note, ask at your bank  and mobile phone provider for the English language helpline number.
• With all the politically sensitive anniversaries in 2009, the escalating row with Google, and proof of the power of Twitter in Iran, the Chinese government is in no mood for chances. Over the last few months the powers that be have been systematically cracking down on the free sites that allow access to the “real”, uncensored internet and social networking sites remain blocked. As an expat count yourself lucky you have access to foreign credit cards and so a way around this. Get thee a VPN provider ASAP. I’ve been impressed with the level of service offered by Witopia who were really helpful when even my VPN  stopped working during the Uighur riots over the summer.
• If you’ll be using the subway or the bus network (and really, why wouldn’t you? It is not difficult) try to get yourself one of the blue, rechargeable IC cards, Beijing’s answer to London’s Oyster card. These can only be bought at special counters in the subway and as often as not there is no-one there. If you hang around, someone will usually materialise. From memory, the card needs a deposit of 20 kuai and then it is up to you how much you add.
• As much as I love Jenny Lou, try to find your local Jingkalong and market and save a bundle on fruit and veg, spices and noodles. It is also a good chance to practice your Chinese, at least the numbers. Inevitably you’ll be something of an attraction and receive free bunches of herbs as gifts. Don’t follow Mr B’s example and fall for very expensive imported fruits, however. Ahem.
• If you can’t find that crucial western foodstuff, try City Shop near the US Embassy. It is pricey but when you are desperate, it is great. Expat urban legend says if you can’t find it anywhere else in the city, it will be here. We found a frozen turkey here on Christmas Eve and thus averted a catastrophe. It is also great for frozen vegetarian food and baby food. Apparently.
• Expat wives in need of career advice can do no better than talk to Sarah Cooper at Cows From My Window. A font of calm and good advice.

A word on etiquette in Beijing’s crowded spaces, notably the subway and lifts (elevators). The unspoken rule for both of these situations is layering. When entering the subway at rush hour, unless you plan to get out at the next station, you should push your way back or towards the middle of the carriage. You’ll notice that approaching each station a shuffling dance ensues whereby those getting off push towards the doors and everyone else steps back. The same in elevators. Push the button for your floor on entering the doors (not when you’ve found an empty spot) and then arrange yourself accordingly. If you want a top floor, you should be standing at the back, if you want a low floor try to stay near the doors.

Finally, and then I’ll go, for an insight into local vs expat tension, check out this recent discussion. Mr B and I can’t decide whether the article is a Chinese attempt at irony or simply aggressive posturing in bad taste but the reactions from the expat and local communities alike are illuminating.

These are a few of my favourite things (in Beijing)

I’m playing catch-up here but couldn’t resist listing these great finds just in case it helps anyone else:

• Spin ceramics in Lido, close to Holiday Inn and opposite Element Fresh  is divine but take S’s advice. The first time you go, do not buy anything. Look. Resist temptation. Go away for a few days and think about what you really need to buy. Then return. Preferably with someone who doesn’t get excited at the prospect of beautiful vases, plates and dishes and so can reign you in. I love the Kung Fu vases and the large noodle dishes. If you are looking for beautiful gifts for friends and family, especially for weddings, this is my top pick.
• Black Sesame Kitchen is brilliant for visitors and large groups of friends. The Hutong has interesting classes. Check them both out.
• Bao Yuan dumpling house near Chaoyang Park has the. best. jiaozi. EVER. It was our local and we loved it, cheap and delicious. Mr B recommends the crispy pork. I recommend the ones with smoked tofu and glass noodles.
• Lily’s antiques in Gaobeidian is worth checking out for its small decorative items as much as its larger pieces.  They can copy existing items in their showroom into cheaper woods (for example elm instead of walnut). Friends have successfully shipped items from here around the world. A Beijing diplomatic community favourite.
• I have fallen in love with yoga in Beijing. It was a journey that started in India (bien sur) but thanks to a fantastic teacher it has become part of my life. If Beijing’s myriad yoga studios don’t do it for you, Rose Zhou is unerringly patient and focuses on ensuring your posture is always correct. She offers small group classes, larger beginner’s classes and private sessions – the lunchtime sessions are great for expat wives. A gem!
• Ladies who lunch in Sanlitun are spoiled for choice. My top picks are not original but anyway: Hatsune (the epicentre of expat wife lunches it seems), Mosto and Alameda. C swears by Salt up in Lido.
• You’ll never be short of bar options in Beijing. They are legion and range from hidden Japanese whiskey joints, to nuclear bunkers, to those designer joints favoured by Wallpaper readers. I do love a sundowner at China Bar at the Park Hyatt in CBD, the roof terrace at Q Bar is fantasatic during the summer but for sheer coolness, Apothecary in Nali Patio can’t be beaten. At least until the next hot thing comes along which it does with alarming regularity in Beijing. Also, no expat experience in Beijing is complete without a visit to Chocolate, the infamous Siberian styled club that embraces Russian bling (gold escalator, gold toilets, oil paintings on the ceiling…you get the idea) and features a midget bouncer. Consider your first time there as your baptism into Beijing nightlife. As Mr B says, when you find yourself in Chocolate at 3am, it is a sign you should actually be heading home for the night.
• It is a cliché but Plastered 8 is great for gifts. Try Heyan’er next to ICBC bank opposite Gongti or in NanLou for traditional women’s Chinese clothes with a modern twist. If you are in the market for excellent, fully hand-stiched suits, rather than something cheap and cheerful, try Sen Li and Frye near the not-quite-finished 4 Seasons at Lianmaqiao. Great attention to detail and while he usually does only men’s suits, after a little persuasion he made me a tux which I expect I’ll have forever.
• Temple of Heaven park is heaven for people watching. I never get tired of seeing all the things people get up to in China’s parks. Jingshan park and Beihai park are also fantastic.
• For a weekend away at the Wall, rent a villa up at Mutianya but go off-season. Mr B and I had a magical weekend at Hillside Haven. I’ve also heard great reports about the tours by side-car up to the Wall.
• Beijing’s markets are NOT one of my favourite things by any stretch of the imagination. I find them aggressive, over-priced and annoying. Some people love them, love spending 30 mins haggling and tapping in acceptable numbers into calculators. The key tip is to name your price and stick to it. As in India, the key factor is time. If you are willing to stand there for 40 mins, holding your ground and repeating “tai gui le” you will probably come away satisfied. Yashow next to the Village in Sanlitun is better than the hell-hole known as the Silk Market. In 2010 the Silk Market is going to change drastically, with “imitation” stalls shut down, replaced by Chinese “culture” stalls. Apparently. If fake Louis Vuitton is your thing, get there now. Or wait for it to pop up somewhere else which is inevitably what will happen. The Russian market is apparently fun if you are in the mood for fur of questionable origin. The ever-adventurous T tells me Liangmaqiao Antiques Market next to Morel’s near the Canadian School is the place to uncover unusual things in relatively quiet and calm surroundings.
• Finally, you might like to check out this helpful article on being more than a tourist in Beijing.

God Beijing is a fantastic city!

What I’ve learned in Beijing

Well, here’s a post I didn’t think I was going to have to write for a good few years yet.

In any case, here goes:

• The expat community here is open, varied, friendly and extraordinarily willing to help out newbies. Take advantage of this and jump straight in to building yourself a social life, try new hobbies and generally get yourself out of your apart-hotel.
• The expat community here is hard drinking. Very hard drinking. I’ve heard more than one first hand account of expats having to be sent off to rehab after living here for a while.  January seems to be the month of promises to stop. Be sensible and pack an extra liver.
• Be aware that expat postings take a toll on relationships if you are not careful. There are all kinds of temptations in Asia (see above). As an acquaintance of Mr B’s has said, “Beijing is where marriages come to die”. Consider yourself warned.
• All that noisy gobbing up of phlegm bothering you? In a few months, you won’t even notice it. In fact, you may not even notice your partner has taken up the habit until it is too late.
• The rudest expat wives hang out at Lily’s nails on the 3rd floor of 3.3 mall in Sanlitun. Their treatment of Chinese workers there has to be seen to be believed. Disgusting. Also look out for young Russians who bring in their ridiculously pampered pooches. Always something to see at Lily’s.
• Something is seriously wrong with us all when people talk about how you must buy 10 shirts at the clothing market opposite Beijing Zoo because they will only last one wear and should just be disposed of  after one wear rather than washed. Quantity over quality is definitely the Chinese way. And the rest of us are just encouraging it. The madness has to stop!!
• Mandarin is difficult but suck it up. You won’t survive without it. You can however do a huge amount of communicating with just a few words and a lot of miming. You’d be amazed.
• China is indeed a political and economic force to be reckoned with. But don’t believe the hype, or the statistics. It is not there yet. Mr B and I are not convinced that China actually wants responsibility for running things. There remains a level of paranoia here about maintaining control which is going to result in an internal focus first and foremost for a long time.
• Expat life is always about the people, less about the location. The friends you make, the locals you get to know – these are what will make or break your posting.

Mr B and I are really sad to leave Beijing. It’s been a fantastic, enriching, tough, awful, fascinating, fun 9 months. The good has definitely outweighed the bad and under different circumstances we’d be here for a good few years yet. I’m determined to try and keep up my Chinese language skills so who knows, in a few years we might be back…

xie xie Zhong guo! (thanks China!)

PS Are moving companies heavily influenced by culture? Our Indian movers carefully wrapped every single posession we own taking 2 full days to pack us, reflecting that posessions are precious there. Our Chinese movers have been the model of efficiency, packing our flat in around 10 hours.

China in your hands

From all the discussions and debates that expats have amongst themselves here and because I love sweeping generalisations, I thought I’d share the consensus that there are 4 kinds of “China hands” here in Beijing:

The Long-termers: normally bitter, fluent and not going anywhere fast – often the kind of person who would not fit in anywhere else in the world.

The Could-Be-Anywheres: those who make no attempt to fit in to China at all; don’t bother to learn the language; keep a driver to avoid public transport but have a great expat life.

The Starting Outers: college kids with identikit backgrounds coming for an “experience” to put on their CVs and to wait out the recession. This includes vast numbers of ABCs and CBCs (American born Chinese, Canadian born Chinese).

The Over-Its: those who have been here for a while, learned the language, tried to understand the culture but who are tired of it all and just want to head home.

Perhaps Google are in the latter category? The announcement they are considering pulling out of China has been received with equal measures of admiration and scepticism. Personally I think it was a crazy move to begin with, given the required rules of operation here are completely at odds with the company’s raison d’etre. I will not miss the Great Firewall of China at all and can only hope expats and others continue to be able to access VPN services as the government continues its crackdown of the internet.It’s definitely become much harder to do things on the internet since we arrived here 9 months ago.

Is the move by Google really a result of a new round of cyber attacks targeting those involved in human rights? Or has the company realised that the cost of doing business here at the moment is just too high? Read all about it here and here and decide for yourselves.

Baby, it’s cold outside

After about 6 weeks of nothing we got a good dose of snow over the weekend. I love snow. It is related to the fact that growing up in a mild climate I used to live for bad weather because it meant time off school. We got a full week off in the aftermath of the infamous 1987 hurricane and another week following heavy snow. Bliss. Mr B is more sanguine about snow having spent his childhood shovelling driveways and ruined numerous shoes by walking on salted city streets.

Walking around the unusually quiet city yesterday Mr B and I were surprised to see the roads had not been ploughed or gritted. We speculated whether or not the city even owned any.

This morning I walked to the subway passing huge gangs of employees and colleagues who had been “volunteered” to clear the pathways and store fronts and roads. Although some bright spark somewhere in city hall (who deserves a slap) decided it was a good idea to mix marble tiles in with paving stones which is treacherous at the moment.

Where else in the world could the government demand that the citizens of the capital city clear the snow away manually? People power always seems to win in China!

Check out the BBC coverage of the snowfall here.

Park keeper sweeps the paths at Ritan Park

Beijing ren struggle in the snow

The army of employees from the Environmental Protection Agency next door.

Xin nian kuai le!*

As the (western, I’ve got used to distinguishing this week) New Year approaches, it seems the thing to do to look back over a pretty crazy year which has seen me living in 3 different countries.

Bad things about 2009:

• By far and away the worst aspect of this year was watching Mr B’s mounting frustration at his Beijing posting. Our decision to leave early was not taken lightly but, under the circumstances, waiting it out would have been fruitless.

• An all-too-brief stay in Mumbai after returning from 6 months of the most hard-core work experience of my life in Jakarta. We miss the tropical weather, M & his family and the craziness of life in India.

Good things about 2009:

• The arrival of my beautiful niece and god-daughter A. And the arrival of lots and lots of gorgeous babies to friends. Before we reach next mid-summer, we know of 6 new arrivals to come – a bumper crop.

• New friends – so many, and what a difference they make. Friends we made in Mumbai and especially those in Beijing have made us feel at home and given us lots of laughs and memories. In many ways, I feel happier in Beijing than in Mumbai – there is so much going on here. It is true that for expat wives finding friends who you can trust and share problems with is invaluable.

• Getting an insight into arguably the most important country of this century. And having a chance to get to know some of the language, tortuous as it has been.

I’m not sure I’ve improved as a wife this year. Does it count that I tried? I’ve certainly cooked more and for a few months of the year have even earned my keep!

2010 brings another new posting – this time to Brussels in mid-January. Mr B & I met in Brussels. We have a lot of good friends still living there, we know enough French to muddle through, and we pretty much know how things work. Plus I’ll be able to get back to work, in theory. It should all be good, right?

2009 has been a hectic but fascinating year.

Wishing everyone a happy 2010! Thanks for reading.

* Happy new year!